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China is both the world’s largest producer of cotton yarn and its largest yarn importer, buying up cotton thread from India, Pakistan, and Vietnam to supplement its domestic thread. Hughes, president of the United States Fashion Industry Association, suggested that it was important to focus on “the real actions that will get to the perpetrators of the crime, which is not the US companies that are good corporate citizens.”īut just who is responsible is, by any account, a difficult question to untangle. One of the witnesses giving expert testimony that afternoon, Julia K.
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Though Beijing has vociferously denied using forced labor, calling it “totally a lie fabricated by some organizations and personnel in the United States and the West,” US senators met in committee in March to hash out possible solutions to the problem and its presence in the supply chains of US companies. The problem, however, had been building for some time. Some, like Adidas, pledged to cut Xinjiang-made materials from supply chains others, such as Patagonia and the millennial “it” brand Reformation, have said they will stop using Chinese cotton altogether. Soon, those brands were rushing to make public statements condemning China’s actions in Xinjiang, eagerly professing a zero-tolerance policy on forced labor. Reports of the detention camps began circulating in 2019, but by 2020, reports had surfaced that major international brands’ supply chains were marred by forced labor. In January, the Trump administration banned cotton from Xinjiang because of its connection to the alleged human rights violations, roiling a fashion industry heavily reliant on Chinese textiles. US officials and human rights organizations say the cotton fields and factories in the Xinjiang region of China are using forced labor, mainly that of the Uyghurs and ethnic Kazakhs imprisoned in the vast internment camp system that the Chinese government has built in the region in recent years. The US has gobbled up far more Chinese garments and textiles than any other nation every year since 2006 In 2020, Vietnam outstripped China as the biggest exporter of garments to the US market, but that fact obscures the reality that the cloth used to make those Vietnamese garments is frequently Chinese-made, and is often sewn in Chinese-owned factories.īecause of the deep reliance on this single source to meet insatiable clothing appetites, clothing companies - and consumers - now have a particularly big moral dilemma on their hands. Between 20, China was by far the largest source of garment imports into the US. The US has gobbled up far more Chinese garments and textiles than any other nation every year since 2006. Yet it’s a landscape that a mammoth American consumer market - and the steady, supersize patronage of US clothing brands and retailers - has been critical in shaping. I was there to research a book I was writing about clothing and textiles, and the Zone, in terms of its sheer scale, was unlike anything I had ever seen in the US. Trucks stream north on the highway from the Zone carrying miles of dyed and printed fabrics, en route to becoming billions of dollars’ worth of shirts, dresses, shorts, and leggings. More than 50 textile printing and dyeing companies stand in huge rows, facing out over the Cao’e River where it flows into Hangzhou Bay.
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The Zone, as it’s known, is 100 square kilometers, nearly double the size of Manhattan. Twenty minutes out from the manufacturing hub, I began to smell it: the rotten-egg stench of dye effluent. In December 2018, I visited a large dyeing facility inside the Shaoxing Industrial Zone, south of the coastal city of Hangzhou, China.